The first Auverture Collection is live : Auverture x Fernando Jorge Abraço Collection
For Auverture, Fernando has crafted a collection that translates all the graceful ease of his aesthetic into casually elegant earrings, bracelets, and a ring. Of his inspiration, Fernando says he “took the gesture of the idea of supporting each other or holding hands,” with this touchstone nodding to Auverture’s purpose of supporting the independent jewellery industry (10% of the sales from the collection will go towards this goal) “I made delicate structures for the earrings and bracelet and rings, to represent this coming together, the two parts holding each other,” he adds. “This is what was in my mind when I was sketching.”
This concept of the two elements holding one another also acts as a symbol of solidarity and positivity, and is a powerful signifier of human connection during a time in which we have all been physically separated from one another.
The textured detailing seen on the pieces that creates the gesture, meanwhile, is inspired by the grooves that are a signature of Fernando’s Streams collection, which stands out for its sense of movement.
“If I’m designing something that is going to be an extension of my brand, it’s something that I would consider organic, sensual, with a casual elegance,” says Fernando. “These ideas that I associate with Brazil are always present. I want the design to create a feeling that it speaks back to you, not with words but with shapes.”
Having got his start in the jewellery industry in his native Brazil 18 years ago, creating designs for different jewellery houses, Fernando later moved to London to study a master’s in jewellery design at Central Saint Martins. He debuted his own jewellery line in 2010.
As to how he creates his designs’ uniquely organic look, Fernando says that “the genesis of my design aesthetic was really about observing the body and transporting some of those shapes and contours into traditional jewellery silhouettes.”
For Auverture, Fernando and Auverture founder Bibi van der Velden had a “back and forth” of brainstorming before he began designing. “I sketched intuitively a few ideas...and then for me, it’s just refining, refining, refining on sketch,” says Fernando.
“Fernando, as well as being a talented designer, is of course also a dear friend and someone I admire for his approach and understanding of such personal designs.” “We decided to make these limited edition collections in 14k gold, to make fine jewellery be more accessible.”
Due to the travel restrictions during COVID-19, Fernando couldn’t travel to the workshop in Thailand, but he worked remotely with the artisans and Auverture team on each step of the production process, to “give my feedback on the thickness, the curves, the flow of the pieces, the mechanism of the ring, the earring, and the bracelet, to make sure everything creates the same feeling that it did on paper. My 18 plus years of experience doing exactly that product development from sketch to finished piece means I...can read the designs very well through images and videos without being hands-on.”
It was during Fernando’s discussions with Bibi that the two arrived at the idea of a precious spin on the artisanal elephant hair bracelet for the bracelet designs in the collection. “Bibi challenged me to do an interpretation of the bracelet so you don’t have a mechanism of opening and closing – you just slide open and the tension brings it back to its shape. It took some testing from the team at the workshop to get this right, so we’re all proud of the result, that we managed to achieve the idea of this bracelet...in a gold piece.”
Indeed, every aspect of each design’s intricate construction evokes the idea of unity and togetherness. Working with the skilled artisans in Thailand, Fernando conceived of mechanisms for the jewellery that align with the concept of embrace, with each piece designed so it doesn’t separate. The earrings are crafted with a hinge at their base that opens and closes at the embrace gesture, while the ring is formed as two elements that hold one another, and the bracelets are adjusted with the hand-like details sliding towards and away from one another.
Fernando says he’s imagined the pieces so that they can be worn “every day.” “They’re supposed to feel very casual, playful,” he says, adding that the mood of the collection embodies “the tenderness of coming together.” “From this period of everybody being so vulnerable... with the design there’s a feeling of tenderness, of embrace, of care,”.
“These are timeless, every day pieces that could easily be the beginning of a fine jewellery collection. And as many introductions in-person begin with an embrace, a welcoming hug in the form of fine jewellery, as it’s name, Abraço.”
Be the first to discover the Fernando Jorge for Auverture United collection, and explore the designs here.