Chanel’s vintage jewellery exudes the fashion house’s signature elegance, wit, and timelessness.
Its iconic founder, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, first introduced jewellery to her fashion collections in the late 1920s, in collaboration with Fulco di Verdura, whose name later became known for his own jewellery house, Verdura. Together, they created now instantly recognisable designs such as the Maltese Cross Cuffs, which in their original incarnation were designed as chunky, white enamel and silver alloy cuffs adorned with clusters of semi-precious stones in an ornate cross shape.
Indeed, just as Chanel had shaken up fashion with her effortless, gamine aesthetic, her attitude to jewellery was boundary-breaking, too. She would accessorize with both real and faux pearls, and said of her jewellery tastes: “I only like fake jewellery… because it’s provocative.”
After World War II, Chanel chose jeweller Robert Goossens to collaborate on her collections, crafting pieces that the Goossens house today calls “antique and byzantine jewels” fashioned from glass paste and rock crystal. Goossens is now part of the Chanel Paraffection division, which preserves the craft of the artisans with whom the house works, with Goossens continuing to design pieces for the house today. Maison Gripoix was another notable jeweller that crafted costume jewellery pieces for Chanel.
For 14 years during the 80’s and 90’s, during the late Karl Lagerfeld’s time at the house, Victoire de Castellane, who now serves as artistic director of Dior Fine Jewellery, turned out exuberant Chanel jewellery designs that drew on the house’s rich heritage and iconography. Among De Castellane’s standout pieces for Chanel are bold CC logo necklaces, to drop earrings set with faux pearls, and brooches that gleam with colourful glass cabochon stones.
Striking, unique, and beautifully irreverent, discover Chanel vintage jewellery at Auverture.