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Ana Khouri’s beautiful, sculptural jewellery channels a strong femininity. The New York-based designer was originally trained as a painter and sculptor. Her detour into jewellery happened after she created sculptures and decided to hang them off the bodies of naked life drawing models, whilst a student in her native São Paulo. From here, she went on to study at the Gemological Institute of America, Parsons in New York and Central Saint Martins in London.
Ana infused all this knowledge into the jewellery collection she launched in 2002, which also draws on the work of artists and sculptors such as Richard Serra, Alexander Calder and Louise Bourgeois. She works precious metals into strong shapes that follow the lines of the body, and sets them with stones such as opals, coral, South Sea pearls and white diamonds.
Indeed, some of her most striking pieces bring to mind contemporary art. Her ‘Libertine Ring’ is crafted in 18ct yellow gold in a cluster of diamond shapes, recalling a stylised crystal, while her ‘Stem Hand Bracelet’ is an unusual piece that wraps around the hand like an angular, gold snake and sparkles with pavé set white diamonds. She was also among the first jewellers to champion ear cuffs, and now turns out the design embellished with diamonds and white and grey pearls, which follow the curve of the ear.