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“I lead my creativity through my hands,” says designer Luna Scamuzzi, describing the process of creating her distinctive fine jewellery under the label Lucifer Vir Honestus. The house’s designs stand out for their spontaneous-looking, organic forms, which Luna sculpts in wax – without any sketches – before casting in gold. “It’s an instinctive act,” she says.
The designer’s jewellery has an abstract, appealingly distinctive quality. An 18k rose gold ring might echo a tangle of delicate branches, dotted with diamonds, while the irregular links on an 18k rose gold chain necklace evoke bubbles on the surface of water. Indeed, these designs, part of Lucifer Vir Honestus’ Biomimicry collection, are crafted to impart nature’s healing powers, and are the expressions of feeling and beauty coming from the contact with the wild landscape that surrounded Luna in Sardinia, where she spent part of her childhood.
Beyond design, nature is integral to the Italian house’s ethics, too. Lucifer Vir Honestus is the first fine jewellery brands to be carbon neutral and with a social utility impact. After calculating the carbon emissions that result from making a piece of jewellery, the house offsets those emissions associating one or more trees that are planted through the platform Treedom in the world directly by local farmers and bring environmental, social and financial benefits to their communities. Each tree is geo-localized and photographed and has its online profile page where the customer can follow it through the years.
Each Lucifer Vir Honestus piece is unique and made to order, with the client updated on their design throughout the creation process. This artisanal approach takes its cues from the house’s namesake, Lucifer Vir Honestus, who in the XII Century was the first medieval goldsmith to be registered in the Milan corporations’ books. Luna discovered his name and his history as she was researching her architecture dissertation, and captivated by this narrative, soon turned her focus from designing buildings to sculpting on a human scale.
Having founded the house in 1998, Luna creates her at once natural and otherworldly designs from her Milan atelier.