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Noor Fares plays with opals, mother of pearl and white quartz, while Pamela Love spotlights grey diamonds, cabochon opals and a constellation of pavé diamonds. And Fernando Jorge makes a feature of pale stones that seem to emanate light, such as milky aquamarines and rose quartz.
For this new guard of designers, the energy that these stones impart is just as important as their aesthetic appeal. According to Fernando, he prizes the materials as they’re “part of nature.” “That’s what attracts me to gemstones, it’s not only the way they look, it’s that they’re all hidden parts of nature that we dig out and treasure,” he says. His ‘Fusion Rounded Earrings’ are set with beautiful cabochon-shaped rose quartzes, while his ‘Fusion Drop Earrings’ are set with half-moon shapes of pale blue chalcedony, overlaid with shards of clear topaz.
Noor Fares, meanwhile, is well-versed in her stones’ mystical qualities. Her ‘Tarusha Pendant’ is carved from a piece of white quartz, and draws inspiration from the Ancient Greeks’ belief in quartz crystal’s healing powers. “Working with quartz I discovered so many optical properties, that really could be considered magic happening within the stone,” she says. And her ‘Tilsam’ collection takes its name from the ancient Arabic word for talisman, using spheres of rock crystal and moonstone as symbols of unity. One outstanding example is Noor’s ‘Eclipse Ring,’ with a large, almost glowing moonstone at its centre.
As for Venyx’s Eugenie Niarchos, she believes that “stones are for a jewellery designer what colours are for a painter.” “I think there’s such a variety of stones on planet Earth, and it’s a shame that only a few designers explore those stones,” she adds. Among the light-filled stones in her Venyx collection are the moonstones that she uses in her beautiful ‘Theiya Lumia Ring,” which sets three moonstones amid pavé diamonds. Coincidentally, the material is also Cancerian Eugenie’s birthstone.