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Gemologue by Liza Urla, speaks of 10 Female Jewellery Designers not to miss from Couture Las Vegas. Amongst those, 5 are designers that are also part of the designer family at Auverture. Hence, we wanted to bring the spotlight back to them and show you a few of their most intricate, beautiful pieces. Take a look!
Silvia Furmanovich is one of our most esteemed designers. She is from Brazil and draws on a wealth of global inspirations in her jewellery collections. The designer’s ornate, exuberant designs take their cues from age-old artisanal techniques from countries that span India, Egypt, Japan, and Italy – alongside her native Brazil – to create pieces that make a dazzling statement.
Silvia’s Marquetry collection is crafted from pieces of woods native to the Amazon, hand-worked by craftsmen in the region. The designs bear patterns and images fashioned from the wood, with their posts formed from contrasting, sparkling stones such as citrine, blue topaz, or green tourmaline. The pieces chosen below are from the same collection! Diamonds, Morganite and 18k gold adorn the wood they are fashioned with.
A new addition to the Auverture family, is the amazing Carol Kauffmann. Colour – from deep pink, to cool blue, to brilliant green – is infused into Carol Kauffmann’s jewellery designs. This isn’t a surprise, given that Carol honed her aesthete’s eye during her time at her family’s textile business in Brazil, before establishing her jewellery house in the mid-2000s. Carol married this affinity for colour with her past study in sculpture, and it proved the perfect fusion for creating covetable jewellery designs.
Today, Carol’s jewellery stands out for its delicate yet striking shapes, embellished with intensely-coloured stones such as blue topaz, prasiolite, green and pink tourmaline, amethyst, emerald, and sapphire.
And as Carol hails from Brazil, with her base in São Paulo, these designs often take inspiration from the country’s lush flora. Among her latest creations is the Botanica collection, whose touchstone was Carol’s trek through the Amazon rainforest. It inspired drop earrings that resemble palm and banana leaves, that are set with removable, colourful gold plated elements, echoing the tones of the stones with which the designs are set.
Hailing from the fourth generation of a family of Florentine jewellers, Carolina Bucci continues the family tradition of creating her jewellery by hand in Florence’s goldsmiths’ quarter, where she sits “side by side” with the artisans. Carolina’s collections bear the hallmarks of her heritage, taking effects that she finds in her family’s archives and employing them to design jewellery that’s truly distinctive today. Among them is the Florentine Finish, in which gold is beaten with a diamond-tipped tool, to achieve a sparkling, faceted surface, seen on cuff bracelets or bold, gold rings.
Meanwhile Woven, a collection that’s a signature of Carolina’s, spotlights bracelets that are woven from gold chains and silk threads, to create fluid jewellery in a rainbow of precious tones. The bracelets are woven on a loom that dates from Renaissance times, that has been adapted to create works of art on a smaller scale. Shown below.
The designer tells How To Spend It that in another life, she would have been a ceramics painter. “I used to dream of having a shop full of colourful plates and cups, and my own kiln in the back,” she says.
But luckily for her fans – among whom are Gwyneth Paltrow and Victoria Beckham – Carolina has chosen to work from a distinctly more precious palette, crafting modern jewellery that stands out for its effortless brand of glamour.
LA-based jewellery designer Kirsty Stone makes the connection between the ‘then’ and ‘now’ in every piece she creates. It could explain why she chose the French word Retrouvaí, which translates as ‘to reconnect with something from your past’ as the moniker for her distinctive line of modern heirloom jewellery. Indeed, she founded her brand on the notion that “the contents of a woman’s jewellery box are passed down through generations, picking up lifetimes of stories along the way.”
The jewellery designer with the rather apt surname, Stone, was born in Toronto and relocated to LA in 2010. Prior to becoming a fully-fledged designer, Kirsty studied commerce at university. Following a stint at an architect’s practice she began making wedding rings for friends and the Retrouvaí brand grew from there.
At her LA studio, Kirsty creates signature pieces including the ‘Compass’ collection (shown below), which fuses pink opal with green tourmaline or black onyx with a pop of green emerald. Her equally eye-catching signet ring and pendant collection is adorned with unicorns, flying pigs and lion motifs, crafted in polished 14k yellow gold. In addition to their whimsical eccentricity, she likes to ensure that each design has added meaning, inscribing them with memorable slogans such as, ‘beautiful and mysterious’, ‘fearless and extraordinary’ and ‘anything is possible.’
Last but not least in the ‘Female Jewellery Designers from Couture’ is the amazing Brooke Gregson. There’s a painterly, romantic quality to Brooke Gregson’s jewellery, with the designer’s pieces standing out for their nuanced palette of stones, that catch and play with the light. Crafting jewellery that’s eminently flattering to the woman who wears it, Brooke says that her aim is to “respect the stones I work with and cherish the idea of jewellery having so many different meanings and purposes for the wearer.”
Taking inspiration from her past career as a textile designer and her studies in art history – alongside the jewellery that her father collected when she was a child – Brooke says that she envisages fine jewellery design as “a…permanent form of creative expression.” The designer also takes her cues from the healing powers of gemstones, influenced by her mother’s belief in their benefits. She seeks out stones that evoke an “emotional response,” with gems such as tourmaline, fire opal, emerald, moonstone, and aquamarine all a feature of Brooke’s designs.