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Luna Scamuzzi’s expressive fine jewellery designs capture nature’s wild energy. As the designer behind the Milanese Lucifer Vir Honestus jewellery house, Luna sculpts her designs in wax before casting them in gold, an intuitive process that she says allows her to be “free to express what I have in my mind.”
Indeed, Luna’s designs stand out for their fluid, organic forms, evoking nature’s spontaneity. Spotlighting artisanal jewellery-making methods, the house takes its name from the first goldsmith to be registered in Milan in the 15th Century. (Luna had discovered his past while researching her architecture dissertation, a path she followed before turning to jewellery design.)
Here, we speak to Luna about her inspirations, what creativity looks like for her now, and how she transforms her ideas into covetable creations.
Auverture: Why is the natural world such an important part of your work?
LH: Nature is truth. Nature is my inspiration as it is a very important part of my soul. We are nature, and for this reason it is the only never-ending model that belongs to us, and will always inspire humanity. Jewellery is a way to express who I am. It is my soul, my culture, my experience, my way to love, my way to feel things, and to return them to the world. I let nature lead me into her world and let me express [myself] through her. It’s a sort of act of trust, and I firmly believe that nature won’t betray us if we trust her.
Auverture: What is currently inspiring you, alongside nature?
LH: I express myself through jewellery sculpture. In fact, I sculpt every single piece. My inspirations change and evolve with me, the fil rouge [common thread] is me, and my evolution respects nature’s rhythm.
A: How has the recent isolation period impacted your creative process?
LH: The creative process is indissolubly tied to human emotions, and to the need to return them to the rest of the world. This pandemic experience we are living is very disrupting for humanity and needs to be expressed. I think that electing nature as a mentor and letting us go into her world…will have many incredibly beautiful effects, including the most important one – to be at peace with ourselves and with the rest of the world.
A: Your designs are all carbon neutral, and you plant trees to offset any carbon emissions that arise from creating your jewellery. Has protecting the environment always been important to your work?
LH: All the materials I work with…have been selected from suppliers who offer beautiful and traceable materials. This is again an act of respect towards nature. And I have always…tried to be honest and fair with the people who have worked with me. I have my own laboratory in Milan where each piece is made by me and the goldsmith who has worked with me for 15 years.
A: Can you talk about your lost wax casting process?
LH: First I sculpt the model in wax using traditional and unconventional techniques. Then we cast the wax model in gold or silver. After this, we work with the metal in my laboratory, assembling the different parts, stones, enamel, and other elements that the piece needs. This process allows me to be free to express what I have in my mind, and I can realise the piece in exactly in the way it is in my mind.
A: How do you work with your clients to personalise their pieces?
LH: My work is to create and realise one-of-a-kind jewellery designs. So each piece is always personalised for each customer. One detail that I’m introducing is adding the customer’s initials, directly carving them into the wax model. As another way of involving our customer in the process, we are starting to send them pictures during the creation and construction of piece, so that they can follow the entire process of their jewellery design.
A: You have created designs for a number of celebrities. Who has particularly stood out for you?
LH: Michelle Obama and Oprah Winfrey are two wonder women! I was so proud [for my jewellery] to be part of their world for some official moments.