Structure and fluidity effortlessly fuse in Greek designer Nikos Koulis’s fine jewellery. His designs marry a stark, Art Deco mood with feminine curves and flourishes. Indeed, Nikos tells The Adventurine that he is “always intrigued by taking a classic pillar from the past and redefining it, in my own terms with my own signature.”
Enamel plays a starring role in Nikos’s designs, with this material creating a graphic contrast with diamonds and precious metals. The Universe Line, which takes its cues from New York’s famed skyline, plays with clear enamel as a setting for dazzling, angular white diamonds. Among the designs are the Universe Diamond Hoop Earrings, which convey a frosty glamour, fashioned as a series of geometric tablets of translucent enamel, set with white diamonds. And the Oui collection takes an even bolder tone, with white diamonds set in glossy black enamel.
Nikos is based in Athens, Greece, where he has his own atelier, but he honed his eye for jewellery when he studied gemology and glyptography (the art of engraving gems) at the Gemological Institute of America. Before this, he had studied literature. Now, the designer weaves visual stories with his elaborate, experimental designs. “My jewels are emotional,” says Nikos. “They are not a passing fancy; they have the intensity of a love affair.”
The designer founded his brand in 2006, and it represented a homecoming of sorts, given that as a child he always “sketched and handcrafted things” as part of his family’s jewellery business, he tells Katarina Perez.